Reinforcing Your Dreams
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Fixing Rot With Pro Glas Wood Sculpting Epoxy michaelo @ 2013-08-16 09:21:48
This blog will cover the process I used to fix rotted areas on a deck before painting.
Safety first. Always read MSDS and understand the products you are using. I used Safety glass, and black nitrile gloves for this job. Keep Epoxy off your skin.

I forgot to take before pictures of the deck. large hole was 2.3 inches deep, almost through the board width of a baseball. The other areas were about an inch deep and 3 to 6 inch's long.

You can pigment this product and change the color if needed. You have a tan brown to start with. so not all colors can be made. Ask your Fiberlay rep if you have any questions.

1. Make sure the wood is Dry as possible. Tent off area use heater, sun, etc.
2. clean out the dead wood areas in the hole. Don't worry about making the hole bigger. Wood Sculpt will fix it unless major areas of wood are rotten. I would get new wood at that point.
3. Sand around the hole or damaged areas. Sanding Down to wood is ideal if you have a painted surface for a better bond. I used 80 grit for this project. (Side note I used Mirka's NEW electric Ceros sander with Shop vac (see pic below). Amazing tool. I will do a blog on it later.) If any new areas or knot holes break open while cleaning and sanding just remove the rotted wood. goal is to have the area as clean as possible with solid wood.
4. Once all areas are ready to be worked on mix up a batch of Fiberlay Penetrating Epoxy with rot prevention added into it. On this project I didn't have any on hand, So I used 1200 2-1 fast epoxy. Good viscosity, low Amine. Both of our Pro glas epoxy systems 1300 4-1 and 1200 2-1 are thin enough to do a decent job. Coat the wood in the holes and around the area with the liquid epoxy. This coat soaks into the wood and gives a nice Epoxy surface to bond to.
5. If the areas dry up quickly do another thin coat.
6. Once the kicks off to a gel stage grab the Pro Glas Wood Sculpting Epoxy. it is a one to one mix ratio by volume. it feels and performs Sort of like playdough. one side is white, the other brown. Once mixed you end up with a light tan look. A few different ways to measuring. mixing cups. Pack it in a mixing cup removing air etc push it down tell it is firm. From the side see how many oz it is. Do the same with the other side of Epoxy. Put both sides onto a piece of cardboard. Mixing them together with your glove covered hands, working (kneading like making bread) it over and over tell all white is gone and mixed to a solid tan color. Could take a good 5 - 6 minutes of mixing.
7. once mixed pack it into the cleaned out rotted areas. really pack it in. Remove air and making it somewhat firm. I put more then the hole requires and sand to flush after cured. When you smooth the surface with a squeegee or glove covered hands it is not like cake frosting. More like playdough. Kind of rips and is an imperfect surface (see close up pick below). I found warm glove hands helps or best just push and level with thumb making an ok surface that sits above the wood surface.
8 let it cure. if it is hot enough 80's, 90's or hotter you might get away with a lite sand in 3 - 4 hours. 24 hours for a good hard cure, then 7 days at 77 for a full cure. After a day at or above 77 you can sand drill or screw. The longer you wait the better though.
9. This product is very strong and sands easy. You can get a pretty smooth surface using fine grits of paper if needed. I used 80 grit again to cut it flat to the wood. the whole deck will be sanded and repainted in the next few days (see pictures below).



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