|Proglass 1100 concrete table top.||michaelo @ 2012-09-17 13:49:25|
when the customer called saying he wanted to flood a concrete table top that he built. I wanted to be a part of it. I have flooded a few tables but never concrete.
First I will explain how we did it. Then what I would have done different.
- Customer found crushed glass, blue, red, and green, shells, and a few other items on the beach. He made a frame from wood. Poured concrete and placed his items all across the top. Then exposed the aggregate.
- We brushed on Proglass 2-1 med. hoping it would seal the concrete. (end result – it did not) minor pin holes that created bubbles as the 1100 cured. After many pores of the 1100 we did finally seal them all. Concrete degasses with heat from the resin. Even blew holes through the 5min epoxy.
- We taped off all sides (created a dam) so we could get a good ½” inch thickness of 1100. Did one pour about ¼” and let it cure, wet sanded with 1000 grit to and worked on a few air pockets from degassing. Finally sealed them. Before we poured the second coat the surface was heavily scratched from the w/d paper. That is ok. The next coat fills in all imperfections and turns it into glass again. The customer wanted a rounded industrial front face so he did not expose the aggregate there.
- Second coat we did about an 1/8” pour and brushed the front face under the tape. (goal was to have some epoxy down before we flood coated.) we let cure. One more 1000 grit scuff looking for any more issues. A couple flies, we sanded them out and got ready for the last pour.
- We removed the tape from the front edge. we then sanded the sharp edge of 1100 with 600 grit. Rounding the epoxy edge from the first two pours.
- We mixed up a batch and poured all across the back of the table and let the resin find its way to the front. (flood coating is a waste of resin but the end result can be amazing.)(If the resin starts to roll over the face in lines and not equally. Do a few quick passes across the whole face with a foam brush and break the tensionor or all sides if you are flooding the whole piece.)
What I would have done different:
- Mix the concrete up with epoxy not water. We have a lot of pattern shops that use this method when they are working with concrete. That way the concrete is completely sealed all the way through.
- Exposing the aggregate would be the trick. Not sure how to do that part. I could see laying a layer of rock, crushed glass over the surface before it cured. But you would have to run some tests to see what the best mix ratio would be and how to expose the rocks.