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Proglass 1200 2 - 1 epoxy and Proglass 1100 1-1 Bar Table ian @ 2013-03-12 16:23:42
This blog will cover products and steps taken to complete this bar table job.
first picture is of what the raw uncoated wood looks like.
The customer has two 8 to 9 foot long by 2ft wide tables he wanted to seal and coat.
Second and third picture are of the 1200 U/V epoxy coating. (to seal and coat the wood.) Last two pictures are of the finished product with 1100 U/V epoxy resin.

Main Supplies needed:
Spreading tool: Squeegees, or foam roller, or foam brush.
Mixing pots: determine size that makes sence for your project
Stir sticks:
Plastic sheeting for floor covering:
Tape for plastic sheeting:
Heat gun or small propane torch:
Gloves: nitrile or latex
Safety glasses:
Isopropyl alcohol:

flood coat(this project was flood coated): pouring 1100 resin over the table and allowing the resin to run off on all sides. Creates a thin glossy coating and naturally rounds all corners.
casting: Creating a dam around all sides and pouring to a set thickness. Creates depth or casting items under the surface. i.e. Coins, pictures etc.
combing casting with flood coat: You can also combine the two. Cast to set thickness, sand, wipe down, remove dam and flood coat.

Step 1: Preparing Wood: wood was sanded and wiped down. Making sure all loose dust etc. is removed.

Step 2: get the room or area as warm as possible. I cannot stress how important temperature is when performing this application. Goal is 77 degrees, Table, Resin, mixing pots and room at 77 Degrees or close. All of our cure times and gel times are rated at 77 as well. So if you can have all materials at this temp you can go off the labels cure and gel times.

Step 3: Mixing the 2 -1 epoxy resin: KEEP EPOXY OFF OF YOUR SKIN!!!!! Use all proper safety protection. For this job we used medium hardener for a little longer working time. we used about 1 half of a ½ gal kit (1/2gal A and 1QT B) to coat the two tables. We mixed a QT at a time. Poured in the A side (2) then the b side (1) and stirred (trying to keep from folding air into the cup. Scraped edges, bottom, stir, repeat. Make sure you spend time stirring. (One of many important steps.) Wood stir sticks could trap moisture make sure they are dry or use plastic, or metal stirring devices. Once you have a good stir pour into another mixing pot don’t try to get all the epoxy out. You only want the main bulk from the middle that pours out on its own. If you attempt to get all epoxy out of the first mixing pot you risk putting some unstirred epoxy (from edges or bottom) into the new pot. Goal is the sides and bottom stay in the old pot so all you have is good mixed material in the second pot. Now give the 2nd pot a good stir and pour some on the wood and start spreading. The reason for the mixing procedure is to limit the chance of “Soft Spots” uncured epoxy that will not cure over time. It becomes a gummy wet spot no matter what you do. You can dig out the area and recoat if you find any. (not fun though so mixing correctly will reduce your chances. (plastic, or rubber spreaders work well) also you could use foam brush or roller to get the surface covered. The goal is the cover all the surfaces and edges you plan on casting on with a thin coat of 2-1 epoxy. The lower the viscosity of the epoxy the better. Our 2-1 is ok but we have thinner versions. Liquid wood, or when we launch our Proglass penetrating epoxy. The epoxy will suck up in the wood and give you a nice epoxy surface for the future steps. (Deeper the penetration the better.) On edges you can use foam brush, roller, or your hand with gloves on to coat. Hands properly protected are a great tool.

Step 4: Prepping for the 1100 U/V: I would let the table dry at least 24 hours at 77 degrees if you can. The colder the area the more risks of a failure happing. After the first coat is cured check all surfaces. Make sure everything is cured and hard. You will see a very thin oily residue with our 2-1 (amine blush) you can remove this with wiping down with Isopropyl Alcohol If you are not applying the second coat for a few more days….. you could use Warm water with a splash of Dishwasher soap. But I try to stay away from water because you could risk moisture issue on the next coat if you don’t dry everything out completely before the next coat. Now sand, by sanding after removing the blush you don’t gum up the sandpaper as bad. I try to stay in higher grits to make sure I get a nice glossy finish on the next pour. Goal is to make some peaks and valleys for the next pour to grab onto as well as remove the top amine blush film. I have experienced coarse scratches in the past from too coarse of sandpaper. So far all the scratches I have experienced vanish with the 1100 table top resin. The resin fills in all scratches and makes them invisible. Go around table make sure you wiped off all the dust or contaminates.

Step 5: Flood coat with 1100: for this job we used 5qt mixing pots with the 1100 since the tables were so large. Same mixing instructions. 1100 is a 1-1 equal parts, stir scrape, stir, pour into another 5 qt mixing pot stir and get ready to pour. Try to watch air bubbles. You will have plenty of working time but I still like to get it on the table as soon as possible. Multiple pours on the surface could result in a visible line as the two pours might cure at different times. If possible try to mix up enough to fully cover your area with one pour. Warmer the resin the better it will flow….. but with that said your gel time will be faster (less working time) if it is over 77 degrees. Do not microwave the epoxy!!!! I look at the surface and decide how I am going to pour the resin. Goal is to not overlap your pour lines. I usually put a thick line down the middle then round about 3 inches back from the edge and put a good bead all around the edge keeping about 3 inches from the sides. You want to epoxy to meet itself and flow together and over the edge. This table took a little over a gal of material. Mainly because it was cold and the material did not flow very well or fast. You can help the resin move around areas that stay dry. Lifting one side, lifting other side, lifting front, lifting back. Or you can use squeegees, if I do this I pull from a thick area and scrape the top of the resin pulling it to the low area. This way I am not scraping the wood dry just skimming off the top. Once top looks pretty covered. Run protected hand (Gloves) all around the edges to break tension on the epoxy drips. You tend to get run lines at first not a nice equal flood over edges. Once you rub your hand all around edges it should flow more equal. Now get the heat gun.

Popping Air bubbles:
There are a few methods to pop air bubbles. Here are two methods that work. Either method you want to always move around. Don’t stop anywhere. Both generate to much heat and will burn or kick off the epoxy.
Heat gun I find this method to be easy.
Hand held propane torch. Keep the flame above the epoxy about 6 inch’s. The gasses from the torch will pop bubbles.
I start at one end and go back and forth like mowing a field watching the little bubbles pop. I cover the hole surface and then wait and watch. About every 2 min I will run another pass popping bubbles. Even though you don’t see many of them they are there. Popping bubbles now helps prevent bubbles later. Most bubbles will work their way out naturally. By doing this you help the process sooner.

Let cure for at least 24 hours at 77degrees. Sand off any drip circles on bottom edges. Brush the 2-1 over sanded areas if you don’t like the look or feel. Most of these will be under the table out of site. If you want to do another coat over the top. Use Wet and Dry sandpaper higher grits. Always start high and climb down tell you can get under the imperfection. Use water and sandpaper to sand down imperfections. Everywhere you sand will turn a white scratched look. Don’t worry the next coat will turn right back into glassy glossy look.

The table will still be curing on the micro level for the next 7 days. If you get scratches after lots of use. You can sand and buff them out. Or recoat. If you pour correctly you should have to do no work to the surface. It should be finished once it dries. If you must sand and buff the table. Wait at least 3 days after curing at 77 degrees.

added note, This blog was made over a year ago. I went in to see how the tables have held up over the year. beer cans, people, plates etc. they still look really, really good. Owner says everyone still comments on the penny tables.